Sunday, March 16, 2014

DIY Daryl Dixon Crossbow Part Two

I forgot a few things from part one.  They have been added, so go check that out first if you've already started your crossbow.  I also updated the materials list to reflect what will be needed for this part and for part three.

Part two is going to be a lot of down time.  Lots of drying and wait time between steps.  Also, these do not need to be done in order.  You can do a bunch of these steps at the same time.  As a glue coat dries, make the bolt.  As the bolt dries, add another glue coat, then make the feathers.  Make sure all of your parts have been glue coated.  I used 8 coats.  While I was waiting for the coats to dry, I made the bolts.  I used 5/16 dowel rods.  The bolts need to be 20".  Measure twice, then cut.  You will need four total.


In some of my picture you will see much shorter rods.  Those are for my Lady Arrow cosplay.  Just ignore them.  After you cut the dowel's, sand the rough edges.  Again, I used 100, then 220.  After sanded, paint.  You will need to paint them black, and in steps.  Use thin coats.  Don't gop it on, or it will look terrible.  Paint one side, let it dry.  Paint the other.  Do at least two coats, even in the first coat looks like it covered everything.  Nothing worse than discovering a flaw while at the con.


You will also need the feathers that go on the ends of the bolt.  There are three on each bolt, two white, one neon green.  Cut these out of paper.  I would recommend sketching one out, cutting it out, then testing to see if it works.  If so, you need a total of 12.  Use the original to outline the others.  Also, make more than 12 so you have some backup in case one rips or bends.


After you have these all cut out, you need to paint them.  I used acrylic paint on everything.  Remember that you need two white for every green.  Do thin even coats, and do at least two coats on each side.  I had to do three coats in order to not see the brush strokes.




You will also need to paint your crossbow foam pieces.  Thin, even coats, two coats on every surface.  I bet as you do your second coat you will find at least one brush/paint flaw.


Here is a picture of all of the foam parts after painting:


Next, you want to seal this paint.  The sealer will help give it some stability.



 I actually did not like how this sealer dried.  It had a haze to it, so I ended up having to repaint a very light coat on everything after sealing it, which is a bummer.  So, just a heads up.


Also, we noticed that the hand grip was a little weak, so we used some scrap wood to stabilize it. (Dimensions: 1 1/2"X7"X1/4") You do not need to do the glue wash portion on this piece, simply paint it, then hot glue it on.

The ends of the dowel rods will need a notch painted on them.






I was actually afraid to cut a notch into the dowel.  It might break.  And it's way too close to MegaCon for a risk like that.

That's it for part two.  Part three will be assembly!

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5 comments:

  1. You didnt exactly explain how to put on the O rings so we can put a strap on. Could you cplease explain? It looks glued flat but im not sure how I could put a strap on if its flat? Please and thank you

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  2. The O-rings were just glued on but came off very soon into the con. I remade this crossbow using worbla, which worked much better. Worbla holds to worbla much better than glue to metal.

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  3. How much would you charge to make one of these

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    Replies
    1. I don't do commissions right now, so I'd have to sit down and calculate materials and hours and such, but ballpark figure off the top of my head, probably between $250-400 depending on which version, with foam being cheaper, worbla being more expensive.

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    2. I don't do commissions right now, so I'd have to sit down and calculate materials and hours and such, but ballpark figure off the top of my head, probably between $250-400 depending on which version, with foam being cheaper, worbla being more expensive.

      Delete